Most of this was written up at the time, and it has not all been revised, so there are odd changes of tense as a result. I may get round to polishing it up later, but it seemed more useful to get something up fast. It appears to have more to say about trains, food and sleep than my enjoyment and appreciation of what I saw. Perhaps I will have time to expand it with my feelings about it all one day, but the overall conclusion is that it was an amazing experience.
David has written up his memories of the visit in his Japan Diary web pages, including some photographic evidence that I was actually there. The relevant entries are 2004/08/21 and 2004/09/25.
No Misty to wake me up - I feel sure she is settled in with Gareth and Hazel and is noisily demanding breakfast. Everything, as far as I know, ready on time, and taxi there on the dot. Coach worked well - I got a front seat so no problem going round corners. It made such good time that I was too early at Heathrow. It was easy to check in with my e-booking. I'd been allocated a window seat, which I like except when the flight is so long that I'll need to walk about, and switching to the adjacent aisle seat appeared simple. They would not accept my case until 15 minutes later than my first attempt to drop it off, but by the time I had been to the loo and returned to the back of the queue, it was Ok. I indulged in lunch at the seafood bar - a delicious prawn cocktail salad topped with several huge crevettes, and the dressing sensibly served on the side so nothing was swamped. There were even 3 little chocs with the bill which postponed breaking into my emergency bar.
Our gate was announced amazingly early. The screen had been misleading - my seat was in the middle of a row of 3, however, once dinner was over (chicken teriyaki) they dimmed the lights for sleep even though it was only 7ish, and people moved to empty rows so I was able to curl up using all 3 seats and so slept a bit, hoping this would mean I had slept enough to count as Friday night.
Stopped trying to sleep about 8ish. Continued to keep an eye on the flight map and information - place names very sparse over Mongolia. Landed a fraction early. Ended up near the back of the immigration queue for the usual reason (finding a loo right after landing) but they were pretty quick, considering. Most cases had been retrieved by the time I went to locate mine. Found the Japan Rail office easily and was seen at once. It took a while but I got the pass sorted and picked up all the train tickets I'd booked over the Internet at the same place. Despite all this, I still caught the earliest Skyliner I had thought realistic. I had expected it would be hard to see paddy fields while in Japan, given where I planned to be, so I was very glad to see a number from the train, rows of little rice plants clearly visible. I was too tired to think of using the camera and feared I might doze off and miss my stop.
I had to deal with booking the Takayama trains at Nippori station. It would have been easier had I not been too tired to remember some necessary vocabulary for dates, but it was done in the end, though not quite what we had hoped for and, as was discovered later, they failed to sell me the actual travel tickets for David on the Hida, providing only the reserved seats. At the time, I thought everything was sorted.
The walk to the ryokan from the station was a bit far with the case, and I worried about its little wheels. I thought I might have become lost a couple of times, but the city atlas worked perfectly and the second time I stopped, wondering which way next, I was actually right outside the place and half an hour early. Fortunately they kindly made me welcome right away so I was able to get rid of the case and wash.
After a short rest I went to investigate a festival at Nezu shrine since it was a special event and very close by. The azalea display was amazing. There were lots of people there and plenty of stalls selling food and things. I was tempted to eat but not brave enough. Continued on a circular route via some craft-type shops including a small gallery of just cat pictures and models - well, I needed some change ... The area where the Sawanoya ryokan (traditional inn) is situated is very interesting and old-fashioned; narrow streets, old small houses, some temples and shrines, some specialist and craft shops.
A very brief rest, writing the above, then lurking by the computer downstairs to get a turn on it. I don't yet have the TWI phone and don't feel confident about having enough change for the pay phone, plus it would be a good idea to let Val and Christine know I'm Ok so far. Nice to find a 'welcome' message from David; useful to be able to let him know about the problems with our train on 1st May, and very useful to catch a message from Kakuhari-san at UK Dodwell (TWI's Japan agents) - looks like I can fix up for lunch on Tuesday with them.
Not had a meal since breakfast on the plane so badly in need. I decide to start by looking for the yakitorya David liked and that the inn recommends. Finding it was easy. English menu in the window was encouraging. Having to slide aside the door was a bit daunting but inside it was relaxed and welcoming and there was a group of four ladies at the other high table. I ordered fried tofu as it would be guaranteed safe to eat. The lumps were huge and I have forgotten how to control chopsticks so it was very inelegant, but OK.
It seems very likely that at some point I shall trip over something on the very crowded floor of my little room and crash through one of the delicate screen walls! Especially likely as the room lights don't seem to work in the night.
Thinking of the Mikado's song, what might the punishment be for standing up in the shower or failing to put on slippers when walking across the corridor to the toilet?
Keiko-san (my Japanese teacher for a while at TWI) arrived at 10. It was very good to see her again and we were both excited just to meet again after so long. First we went to see what all the fuss was about just around the corner - there was a fire service rescue and first aid display with pounded rice making in the adjacent street.
We walked to Nippori station, the way I had come the day before, then got the Yamanote line to the vicinity of Hamarikyu Koen (a garden on the edge of Tokyo harbour). I got a useful lesson on how to buy a ticket and take a local train. We went for a walk in the park, pausing to take tea in the teahouse. It seemed more than coincidence that a cat chose to appear just outside while we were relaxing there. The shoals of tiny fish swirling as one in the salt water lake were very interesting. Next we took the water bus to the next quay south where we picked up the monorail to travel over the Rainbow Bridge. In front of the Venus Fort shopping mall was a very colourful and popular wildflower garden of cornflowers and poppies, which we walked through. We needed a meal so went into the mall and found an Italian lunch by a fountain, which was very suitable since the inside of the complex is all mock Italianate.
Next we went to find a waterbus from the beach to Asakusa. This meant crossing the windy, slightly choppy bay on one boat then changing to another. The trip up river was good - lots to see.
At Asakusa we went to Sensoji and some of its associated shops - the rows of shops selling food and souvenirs seemed to be as important a feature as the place of worship itself. Once we had finished there we decided to look for an evening meal; I had not expected Keiko-san to stay so late but Katsu-san had said she should stay as long as she wanted and she wished to have dinner with me, which was great. Many restaurants were too expensive or just snack places. I most wanted to have ebi tempura with Keiko-san as we had both said in England that it was a favourite. We went to a traditional-style restaurant for our Japanese tempura meal. Keiko-san insisted on coming on the underground all the way back to the ryokan with me.
Once there, in order to ensure there were no misunderstandings in the arrangements for the following day, Keiko-san called Takahashi-san (mother of Reiko-san, a friend of mine at TWI) on my behalf. Takahashi-san offered to come for me about 9.30 am but I askled her not to come until 12, which was just as well, as it turned out. To make the call, Keiko-san purchased a phone card and we were both delighted that the card she got had several kittens on it! I managed to make her take the money for it. When she had gone, I had a swift Japanese-style bath, looked at webmail and went to bed.
Wildlife seen during the day:
Big butterfly quite like swallowtail.
Big butterfly with black
edges and lines and vivid green infill.
Big crow
Swarming shoals of
tiny salt water fish
Jelly fish
Big brownish heron-like bird
Pigeon
with brown body and dark head
Blackheaded gulls
Cormorant
I was ill in the night, and all day, alas. Did nothing but snooze and rest all morning. Felt very sick - may well be dehydration and excess heat and sun the day before. Takahashi-san took me to Meiji-jingu which was cool, quiet, relaxed and refreshing. We got there on the local metro line without having to change. I very much enjoyed looking around, despite feeling bad. Then we went by taxi to Ginza for late lunch in the restaurant of a department store for ladies' things - tofu in many varieties. Probably would have been able to force down very little when well so perhaps good I had an excuse. Was very sick in the taxi back to the ryokan. Many photos were taken, and Takahashi-san was very kind to me, giving many gifts - a subway payment card which proved very useful, some interesting Japanese sweets for my onward journey, a charm for safe travel (which appears to have worked), and some pretty flowers on a chain. I hope to see Takahashi-san next year in Cambridge when she visits her daughter and her family here.
Being ill meant that I had to omit half the things I meant to do today - no visit to the Gotoku-Ji Cat Temple in Setagaya and no serious shopping in the big stores.
Much better night - awake often but more like jetlag than sunstroke. No danger of sun today - the promised rain began yesterday evening and is still falling. I shall use the jacket Val gave me, and today is 'museums day' for me so mostly indoors anyway.
I had the simple breakfast at 8 and if I manage the same time tomorrow, I may get on TV! Called UK Dodwell (TWI's agents in Japan) and was asked to call back at 11, after persuading Kakuhari-san that it was better to meet nearer his office and my planned destinations rather than return to the ryokan.
Wet all day. Walked to Asakusa Chouso museum - sculptor's house not far from the Sawanoya ryokan. It is a beautiful building; I agree with David that it would be superb to live in.
Walked to the national museum. It was about 10.30 so decided not to go in because of having to phone. Went through Ueno park to the main shrine, Toushou guu, and found a special display in a peony garden. Zoomed round it in 10 minutes rather than not go in at all; Japanese probably thought the foreigner was not showing proper interest or respect. Worth it to see lovely blooms sheltering under their parasols.
Made call, following a fight with a duff phone that tried to hang on to my kitten phone card. Had trouble with the coin phone - it didn't seem to like being fed when the first coin inserted ran out. Had to take the Yamanote line to the next station, so set off at once. Fight with a ticket machine was solved with the aid of a kind passer-by - seems I wasn't pushing the buttons fast enough. Kakuhari-san came to the station entrance for me and took me to a nice restaurant, western style so comfortable to sit. Fukuda-san joined us. I was worried about what I could eat after being so sick yesterday but ordered 'fried shrimp with rice'. It came preceded by soup but I managed to make a go of that and the rest was just what I needed. Conversation was easy as both have good English and we talked about where I had been, what I planned to do next, and TWI, which is sending several members of staff over during May.
They had to get back to work, so I was put on course for my next destination without too much delay. It was the Shitamachi history museum. Very interesting, especially as there was an elderly lady as volunteer English-speaking guide who helped in understanding the displays of what life was like for the artisans in old Tokyo. There was a craftsman demonstrating metal embossing there.
Off for more history then at Edo Tokyo museum. Was zombified by 4.30 so had tea - almost like home but hot milk. Staggered back to the ryokan through the park seeing the lake (which looks surprisingly good for birdwatching for a city centre park) and the Sofitel hotel on the way - it is the place that Graham stays and, curiously, also David's father's choice.
Now I had the TWI phone so I made a few calls (David, Keiko-san and Takahashi-san) then had a bath, with evening meal in my room of apple and cake as I was too worn out to go out again.
Slept very badly. The strong wind dropped but it was hot and stuffy. I felt washed out but got up as requested to be at breakfast by 8 - put on makeup for first time this holiday! TV crew arrived soon after 8. They spent quite a while talking to a Frenchman and three Germans, all using English. The Japanese lady interviewer was hard to understand so I was amused by the communication problems. They were interested in where one was from, how long one had been in Japan, what one had seen or planned to do, and feelings about the ryokan and its immediate area. As expected, many questions were 'how do you feel about ...'. She asked them about Japanese food, especially natto -they had no idea what it is. Off camera, I chuckled. They talked with me briefly, even attempting to use Japanese when it became apparent that I know a little, but I did not feel I could cope with that. I was not asked anything I could not easily deal with and, thankfully, nothing about food. How does one eat toast elegantly just in case the camera looks that way?
Went to the local post office where a girl was very helpful over stamps for postcards. I checked out of the ryokan and walked to Nezu station, in sun. Struggled to get up and down - astonishingly few escalators even at Tokyo station. One tiny young woman helped me with one flight. I was very early but decided against the idea of looking at the imperial palace, as I had hoped to do, as doing anything when encumbered with luggage is just so hard, and I could not bear taking the case up or down any additional stairs. Waited on the platform over an hour, but better than being late.
Continued to read the new book I was intending to give to David until my train was at the platform and being cleaned - being a terminus means it waits more than a minute there. I found my reserved seat but there is little space for luggage and the suitcase has to go where my legs should have been so it was cramped. I bought an expensive lunch on the shinkansen of a small amount of nice salad, two tiny egg sandwiches that were nice and two with meat in that I left. Many interesting sights on the way but past in a flash. Saw what might have been the base area round Fuji-san but no map plus low cloud hindered visibility and identification. Nagoya was the first stop. Luckily we got plenty of warning to disembark. Since I was feeling fragile after not sleeping much, the swaying train had made me feel odd so I was glad to get off. Signs for where to go next were not apparent until I took the plunge and went down, acting on David's instruction to go to platform 2, but at least it then became clearly signed and there were escalators and a lift. I was lucky and only had about 10 minutes to wait. The next train was crowded but there was room for the case and I eventually got a seat. I had no idea about the stations on this line and watched the signs. Seeing one indicating the next station as Nishi-Okazaki, I had no idea if this was Okazaki main station or not but it looked big and two schoolgirls said it was Okazaki so I got off - I had my pass and half an hour to rectify the situation if I was in the wrong place. It was right and I found a seat to wait. David was to aim for 3.40. At about 3.30 I finished the book, which helped me deal with the incipient panic about actually seeing him again that had started on the train from Nagoya. By the time he arrived at 3.45 I was OK.
Since his school was close by and going to be closed most of the time I'm here, we went there so I could look round a bit. I met the principal and saw two of the classrooms David has lessons in, so now I can imagine him there quite accurately. I soon noticed that David is fluent in at least day-to-day Japanese now and has absorbed some customs and habits. He took me in a taxi to my hotel and waited while I got stuff into my room then we walked to where he lives, chatted and went for an Italian meal - something safe for my slightly wobbly state. We chatted lots, then he walked me back to my hotel. This hotel is western style- I have a bed, a chair, a TV with porn channels, an ensuite bathroom, and powerful overhead lighting (if only western hotels would copy this particular feature!).
Another almost sleepless night - I doubt I can keep going unless this improves unless I try to make time for a day-time snooze. Feel ungrounded but not sick. This is, I think, Midori day, a bank holiday for admiring the new green spring leaves opening on the trees. David has the day off school, which is why I am here now. Glorious clear sky and bright sun all day. David seems adjusted to it but I found it too hot at times.
David walked to the hotel to meet me after breakfast. Since I have rather more money available than expected, we agreed to make use of taxis where it would help; this meant I could visit both of Okazaki's main tourist attractions. We started with a taxi to Okazaki castle. It is set in a lovely park, which we wandered around for a while so I could admire the lovely views. We went up to the top of the castle for the view - the castle itself looks pretty but is a recent concrete reconstruction. We shared a traditional lunch including tofu flavoured with local fermented misu and served on sticks like lollies, and delicious sakura rice, in a pretty traditional style restaurant. There was a big gaming event - a Shougi (Chinese 'chess') meeting - in progress in the castle grounds with many gamers! This was just so appropriate. We next went to the museum associated with the castle, then we relaxed by lake with cold drinks and chatted - David brought me up to date with Ars Magica news.
Next we took a taxi to Daiju ji, temple closely associated with the Tokugawa Shogun dynasty. I admired the pagoda, a wonderful green dragon waterspout, and the lovely ornate building with its pretty rooms and special painted screens.
To get back we took an expensive taxi across the city. I managed a brief snooze before going out with David to a restaurant 'Tonkatsu ichiban ya' serving local tonkatsu (pork cutlet) with the local hatchou miso speciality.
I fell asleep easily but was woken by a siren at 1.30. Eventually got a few more hours' sleep but hard to sleep after 5 as it so light - I must remember to use the eye mask. David was in school today so I was off on an adventure alone.
Left the hotel about 9; and walked to the station, arriving about 9.30; very sweet to be greeted by one of the four crocodiles of small children I met. Easily got a local train to Nagoya - two lads took trouble to make sure I got the faster train. Did not have long to wait for a shinkansen, and got a window seat. I was on that for half an hour to Miabara - a small place but an important rail junction where several lines converge so many shinkansen stop there. The guidebook misinformed me about the line to take, and was, unfortunately, backed up by a member of station staff. Add to that the fact that a train came in from the right direction to stop where both said I should catch one, it isn't surprising that I got on. The train was ages doing anything and when it did finally move, it headed back the way it came. I got off at the next stop, a tiny station, and had to wait about 20 minutes to be taken back to the junction. This time I found the right platform, did not have to wait long, and was swiftly in Hikone.
The guidebook was right about the tourist information office, and I got a good map and instructions there. I was in need of a light meal and found a cafe with a menu outside that I could understand and contained three types of salad so I went up the stairs and inside. It wasn't that easy, however. As I was alone, I was shown to a seat at the bar, which was awkward and uncomfortable, then I was given the lunch menu. It was largely in katakana so I could make out enough to see that it was all meals, not the snacks advertised outside, so I left, probably confusing the staff.
The first part of the castle I reached was a section of the moat, then the stables. The notice said so in English, there was a model horse inside and the attendant told me it was a horse house, so there was no doubt about it. I walked along part of the outer moat, looking at the fish, through a gate, by the inner moat and into the museum: this emphasised the cultural life of a samurai, with noh masks and kimonos; armour, swords; musical instruments; screens; calligraphy. I found a nice picnic place under trees to eat a huge apple. Butterflies were in evidence, especially the huge black kind. Too hazy to see much of the lake and mountains. After walking around outside a bit, I went into the tower - it is not a reconstruction, so it is all wood including huge beams of little-trimmed tree trunks. The levels inside are reached by steep ladders which one has to climb up and down in socks, since one has to carry ones outdoor shoes around with one in a plastic bag that is provided. This seemed dangerous to me, and I wonder what their accident rate is like.
Next I went down to the adjacent gardens. These were delightful. I don’t know if I liked this so much because it was the first I went round on this holiday, but it seemed to me to be as lovely as any I saw. There was a little grebe on the moat as I approached.
Afterwards, I followed the tourist office lady’s advice and went for a walk up ‘old new’ street. I think it is so called because it is a reconstruction in the old style of what the road leading to the castle used to be like. I looked in a couple of gift shops and had an ice cream, sitting on a bench outside the shop with a couple of school girls.
I set off back at 4 because I wanted to be in time to go out to dinner with David. The train from Hikone was almost immediate and met up very nicely with the Hikari at 4.28. I failed at the last minute to avoid phoning David to say, "I'm on the train", because I wanted the extra 'cool' points for it being the shinkansen. I had a 15 or so minute wait in Nagoya which seemed good to me but David says they go every 15 minutes. This took about half an hour, maybe more, despite being a 'super rapid'. I spotted 2 egrets in paddy fields near Okazaki.
From the station I took a taxi to the hotel. Quick wash and change and phone call, then off to meet David at the road junction where the road to his home meets the main road, and on to the conveyor-belt sushi restaurant. I had prawn sushi, two deep fried ebi, apple juice, and egg sushi. David had lots of other, more adventurous ones, and we finished by sharing a lump of gooey chocolate cake. David was very tired, worse than me, for some reason. We struggled a bit to sort out plans for tomorrow, but he came back in a taxi with me to ask my hotel about me leaving my suitcase for 4 nights while we go off. They agreed at once, so I just have to find a way of getting all the things I shall need into the soft black bag and then get all that into the back pack and be able to carry it!
It was not long after 8 but David was too tired to do anything else, and I needed to wash my hair and sort out packing. No hairdryer so I will probably have to spend time sorting my hair out tomorrow before checking out.
Better night. Leaving aside the quilt entirely and using the eye mask around dawn helped. Still woke in the early hours but did get back to sleep. I was up early to pack and then to curl hair so it could recover from being slept on while damp. I took a taxi to the station. The station very busy - Japan on the move for Golden Week. David arrived while a man was asking where I am from and am I alone. We got a train to Nagoya and thence the Hida train to Takayama - despite my worries over having had to take seats in a smoking car, smoke was very little problem. Superb views almost all the way. I took a great many pictures through the train windows.
We picked up a map at the tourist information kiosk, then took a taxi to Sumiyoshi Ryokan - a beautiful traditional place, antiques everywhere; even better than expected. We were shown to what is probably the best room in the inn - overlooking the river and the small garden with sakura. There is some extreme awkwardness when it becomes apparent that we are expected to share ... My printout of the room confirmation proves I did as requested and booked two rooms. I nervously drink macha in the lovely room. David talks briefly to our hostess and we are moved to a row of three rooms in a row overlooking the river viewing platform. Living room and two bedrooms, so fine, and also very nice.
Out in bright sun to seek food - it is now mid afternoon and there has been no opportunity for lunch - and get started on the recommended walk. Seeing we are heading out of the town centre, away from any shops, we return and find an expensive kissaten (coffee shop) called 'cafe bag' - tea and rich chocolate cooked cheesecake will be enough to keep me going. We did the recommended walk - many temples, few shrines, into woods, then back through town. Superb.
I needed a hasty wash since we were to be served with dinner in our room at a pre-arranged time but I was met by one of our hostesses while heading for the washbasins and firmly taken to the ofuro so I took a rapid shower there. We are served in our suite with a lavish meal of many dishes - mine all vegetables and fish, David's with meat in the cook-at-table pot where mine was poached salmon. Ebi tem brought. Sashimi fine. All good but more than I can manage. Finish with four strawberries that taste as great as my tiny wild ones. Then ocha. Very harmonious as we quietly relax together.
I did not sleep enough. Day starts early here. I heard breakfast being carried to rooms; ours was ordered for 8. It was Japanese style - I managed to eat a fair amount but not as much as half. One concession to modern tastes was that coffee came towards the end, so my threat to have to go and find some faded. I had both coffees. Blue sky, bright sun. We sat out on the platform over the river to review our plan for the day together.
Walk through town to the morning market, where I was interested to see that people brought small amounts of their local produce to sell, then go round old government offices, Takayama jinya. Very interesting to see what rooms had been required in an administrative building, and the features specifically related to the location - stones to break up snow on the roof, gulleys and cisterns to collect melt water, and 'a low fence for keeping tthe snow out'. Very busy especially by the time we are leaving.
Back across town via some shopping to the one of the old merchant houses that David did not do when there with family recently. Rice cracker and tea were provided, presumable for Golden Week. Some of the streets were packed with Japanese tourists but it was easy to find quiet areas nearby. Ask for advice about lunch at the ryokan. Sent to a soba restaurant. Very busy. Both choose local speciality of cold soba with mountain vegetables and mushrooms. I worked round the small raw egg and enjoyed the meal. Walked along the river a bit one way and back on the other side as not yet time to go to train. Collected stuff, walked to station.
Train a few minutes late, very busy. David had the window seat this time. Talked about the RPG industry and the state of David's career while munching chocolate. Good views on the way down but misty in the distance. At Nagoya, waited quite happily for the Hikari. David quickly came up with good plans for two days in Kyoto allowing him to see some places new to him while showing me a few that are repeats for him but convenient. It means I won't see some of the classic Kyoto sights but, since seeing David is the reason I am in Japan, rather than seeing specific sights, that does not matter.
Quick ride to Kyoto. Took lots of yen out of a machine on my debit card. Walk to ryokan. Dash back out for dinner; vegetarian restaurant just about to close so on to the station, and a big hotel there. Went to recommended restaurant obanzai - wait for table. Well worth it - superb yellow fish for me while David had an interesting selection in a speciality dish.
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Western breakfast at 8; the main feature of this is the very thick toast. Walk, subway, walk to Nijo Jinya, a house where diamyo used to stay, incorporating hiding places, escape routes and traps. David had called to book us on a tour. The tour is in Japanese only, but we knew that. Ideal visit for two gamers!
Walked to Nijo Jo (castle) - lovely big rooms, gold and painted walls, nightingale floors. Lovely garden, though rather too busy. Went rather late for lunch to recommended Japanese restaurant where one appeared to sit on the floor but legs could hang down - much better for David - I had grilled chicken; it was delicious but there was very little of it so asked for sakura ice cream, which had all gone so we had the tofu ice cream which was nice.
Bought an extra fat SD card for camera as I am taking so many pictures. Walked to Heian Jingu shrine via the Catholic cathedral. Shrine all green and orange. Walked round garden - rather too busy for relaxation, but nice. Weather had gone from fine to sticky to cloudy and threatened rain but held. (I am told to expect rain tomorrow as David always has a wet day in Kyoto.) Drank free green tea then walk, subways and back to ryokan.
Showers off but baths not ready so problem washing by 6. Brief emailing. Went to restaurant we were too late for last night and I had the priest's vegetarian special, including some very nice flavours, which left the table half covered in little bowls and dishes once it had all arrived. David had a mix of pretty things in 3 hexagonal boxes. Walked back to relax and snooze. Bath very welcome but not hot enough to stay in by this late in the day.
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As predicted, the rain started during the night and despite falling
for many hours, was still teeming by 7am. Did the walking tour as
planned regardless.
Included Sanjusangen-dou with the ranks of Kannon figures. This was a truly amazing sight.
Kyoto National Museum coffee shop then round the permanent collection -
buddas and similar, ceramics, screens, ancient sword blades,
children's kimonos, scrolls.
House of Kawai Kanjirou, a potter, the into a tourist area.
Light lunch at over-priced but
pleasant and convenient cafe. Green tea ice cream.
Kiyimizo temple and Jishu-jinja - very busy.
Kodai-ji temple with tranquil garden, including bamboo grove.
Went into a park Maruyama koen and followed the sound of drumming to
find a performance in progress in front of a temple or shrine -
waited and enjoyed it until it ended.
Walked a little way in the
Gion geisha area but it was still pouring and little to see.
Took a train and walked back to ryokan.
On the way to dinner near the station we were addressed by a gentleman who struck up a conversation. He was a professor of lingustics; it was a pity we did not go somewhere to relax and chat with him as he was very interesting to talk to. We went to the third of the restaurants recommended in David's guidebook and had an Italian meal - this being Japan, nothing was quite as expected.
Sitting by an open window despite traffic noise as I am back in the Hotel Hei Sei and this room reeks of tobacco smoke. Left Kyoto this morning by Hikari to Nagoya. We went early because David had shopping, laundry, email and homework to do before school recommences tomorrow. We talked a bit about his intention to stay while waiting for the train. Got to Nagoya around 11am - he caught the Okazaki connection and I went to see a bit of the city. I put my bag of clothes etc into a coin locker - they have no fear of terrorists here. Picked up a map once I found the tourist information office.
David's guidebook suggested a garden near the station that was run by the adjacent ceramics factory. The gardens were pleasant and modern and rather boring. The ceramics were Japanese versions of European porcelain. The cafeteria provided a drink of apple juice and lettuce bun (their only version of a 'sandwich' with the meat left out by request).
Walked to the castle. The route went by the Noh theatre, which had a free exhibition so I popped in to see some lovely kimonos and some masks. Castle looks good but is a recent fake. Inside there is a lift to the 5th level. Up to the observation floor; walked down through the museum levels. Highlights were the samurai helmet incorporating a metal pointy hat, reconstructions of room interiors, and a lovely gold screen with pictures of a tiger looking at a mother leopard licking her cub while it suckles. Adjacent was a screen showing a tiger sitting tidily with its paws tucked in and entirely more domestic feline than tiger.
Outside the castle I saw little boys dressed up in samurai outfits and a couple of little girls in kimonos. This seemed to be a Boys' Day special event and several parents were photographic their offspring dressed up. I walked into the garden and found what appeared to be a competition for martial artists. I saw four men slice into stout fresh bamboo poles, then a pair approaching each other with swords. A bit further on I found three ladies dancing or maybe doing tai chi to music - would like to have stayed to watch but it seemed they probably didn't want an audience. Saw a pair of deer in the moat. Found subway station after asking the way, returned to Nagoya eki and looked in two department stores there. Found kimonos for around 150 pounds. Only the more expensive-seeming shop has any store guide information in English and that seems to be only on the ground floor. Wandered round for an hour but was not finding anything I wanted to buy and was tired so went to retrieve my bag and caught a train around 4. Large white egret by Toyota.
Back in hotel about 5, having taken a taxi (costs about 5 pounds). Found TWI phone claiming to be out of credits so called David from the card phone in the lobby. Met him at 6.15 by the usual junction and went to Denny's - small choice from set three course meal. I took a small salad with egg and tuna as a starter, which was very nice, spaghetti with chicken and broccoli, which was nice but I didn't eat much, and a last course combining a little ice cream, some sweet beans and several spheres of tasteless white rubber; on refection, I suspect it was one very like this that caused the incident in 'I am a cat' part I, where the hero bit into a pounded rice ball and it got stuck to his teeth.
Slept well considering the noise, smell and some of the previous day's news. Got up soon after 6.30 to make an early start. This meant that I had breakfast with the businessmen.
Walk to station. It was obviously rush hour as I have not seen anything like the volume of traffic on the main road in Okazaki before. Train waiting at the station looked like a long-distance one (homeliner, I think) which I hoped meant it would not stop much. It seemed to be bound for Nagoya so I got on. A member of staff came and got me and other passengers to move from comfortable seats to less spacious places at the front of the carriage - most of the other seats remained empty. He moved people after the next stop too, though not after the stop just before Nagoya. Someone else came to inspect tickets. By making haste at Nagoya, despite a queue for the loo, I caught a Hikari to Osaka at 9.05. Had to change at Osaka but this was not tricky - timetables were evident and name places in romaji. Caught a Kodama, older type of shinkansen, the few stops to Himeji. Was disappointed that so much of the journey around Osaka and Kobe is in tunnels. Got to Himeji about 11 or so, found tourist office and got a map, though route to castle is obvious and clearly signed. Went straight there. Paused several times for photos once I got close and once for a cold drink from a machine that surprised me by delivering lemon drink in a plastic 'glass' with ice. Just as well I had this as it was another very warm day, it took a lot of walking and at least 1.5 hours to do the castle, and one is not allowed to drink once past the ticket office. Followed the marked tour route, taking in every part. The castle really is superb and very well worth the long journey.
No sign of any source of lunch. Walked next door to Koko-en, a new garden. Pleasant and relaxing. Went to the tea house and opted to take tea. Nice young lady at the ticket counter chatted in good English. She decided I did not need the 'how to drink tea' instructions as I said I had done it before. Three very kind ladies were taking tea - I suspect they were students of the ceremony. We talked a very little, I had a sweet and tea, then I photographed them and one of them took me with the group. On the way out, the ticket lady recommended I pop into the shopping area Egret Himeji on my way back to the station, to go up and catch a very good view of the castle, which I did. Before getting there, I bought 3 cotton yukata to take back as gifts. Bought a pasta salad and ate most of it at the station, awaiting a Kodama at 3.25. Changed to a Hikari at Osaka, just a short wait at Nagoya for a super rapid and back in Okazaki around 6.
Phoned David from the station. He stopped work and met me at the crossroads where we have often met before going off to find dinner, then he took me via his rooms to his local ramen place - very real local eating place - where I had fried rice with egg and vegetables; it was delicious and I even finished it. On the way there I was lucky enough to see one of the terrapins who live near David; it was clearly visible on a branch just above the surface of the water but splashed in when I opened my bag to get the camera. David said he was going to work on the combat system so I escaped back to the hotel to bath and pack for an equally early start tomorrow. The walk took me past the nice ponds near David's home, where I heard frogs.
Did not sleep well, so about at 6, and no difficulty being at breakfast at 7. The rush came in soon after me, so it was as well that I was prompt. The hotel were happy to keep both case and zip bag. I was taking as little as possible for my one night stay in Nara. I got to Okazaki station a little earlier than the day before and took the 'special rapid', so avoiding the odd seating system of the day before, but this train was crowded and I felt I might faint at one point. I got a seat at the second stop, fortunately. I was in Nagoya by 8.45 but there was no suitable shinkansen before the 9.05 Hikari. Changing in Kyoto to a Nara train went amazingly well; my book warns that JR Nara trains are few and far between but I looked there first as it would cost me nothing by that route and a suitable express was leaving in 5 minutes. Most interesting sight on route was groves of bamboo where the UK would have trees. I was in Nara at 10.30. The tourist information lady was very sweet and helpful. She asked me, in Japanese, whether I lived in Japan, commenting when I said not that my pronunciation was exactly correct - I had said very little by this stage so maybe I was doing OK!
Took the map and the lady's suggested itinerary up the main street looking for coffee. Found a suitable cafe and opted for the morning set of coffee and a slice of thick toast since second breakfast seemed a very good idea. I continued on towards Nara koen, buying a couple of apples on the way. Went round Kofukuji temple, then to Yoshikien garden. This was not in my guidebook, which praises the adjacent Isuien garden, but the lady in the ticket booth watched me approach and I did not care to disappoint her. I am very glad I went in as the day was turning out very hot and it was around midday. This garden offered lots of cool shade. I did go in the other garden too, and it was nice, but parts were under plastic tarpaulin which detracted somewhat. I saw no signs about food so sat outside a little teahouse to eat an apple, calling it lunch. I decided against looking in the attached museum as there was a great deal still to visit and my guidebook was unenthusiastic about this.
I headed to Todaiji temple and Daibutsuden, along with a huge number of school parties and many other tourists - Westerners were more plentiful in Nara than other places I have been but there were many more people all together here. Saw the enormous building and the great Buddha inside. On through the deer and school children to the great bell, Nigatsu-do hall and Sangatsu -do hall. Lots more to see than I was expecting here. A small group of children asked if they might interview me, which I imagine was in order to practice using English.
Getting weary now, I went on through the paths in the wood to Kasuga Taisha shrine, then tried to work my way back through the southern part of the city centre to locate the Sei Kan So ryokan. Had to ask three times as the map was very misleading. Great relief to arrive there about 4.30 and be shown a delightful big room with windowed balcony overlooking the garden. The proprietor is friendly and has good English.
Tried to call Fukuda-san about the lack of credit on the TWI phone and caught him at the third attempt. Went to seek a konveni (convenience store) but realised I ought to have asked directions at the ryokan so went back, asked, and was sent off in the opposite direction. Confused the lady in the shop since I had hardly any of the necessary vocabulary or information but was successful in getting more credits. I took it all back to my room to sort out as the shop was noisy, a man in there kept putting his arm round me, and there were English instructions on how to put the credits into the phone. Called UK Dodwell to let them know I had fixed it and reassure them that I intended posting the phone as instructed. Then called David so he knew I was alive and the phone was sorted. Felt unwell - too much sun, overdose of temples, too much carrying stuff (the weight was, I think, mainly water and electric chargers), and too much being alone to think. Tried the shower - here a shower and bath are shared by all the ladies so I had company there, but the bath water was too hot for me given that I was well-roasted by the sun so I did not linger. Had tea in my room, took a green pill and slept over an hour.
Felt better on waking and worried it was getting dark and I needed to find a dinner. I was determined not to go any complicated route for fear of losing the ryokan! Went straight along the road outside to where it became an arcade. I was just beginning to think this plan was not working when I found the ideal place - a supposedly French-influenced restaurant with simple, inexpensive meals where I did not feel silly eating alone. I ordered the 'A' set meal with fried ebi and rice. It started with a little hors d'ouvre of lettuce, smoked salmon, nice thin ham and a tiny bit of brie. The ebi came with salad as well as rice. This was followed by a little slice of cooked cheesecake and a tiny cold crème brulee served with a spot of fresh fruit, then a choice of coffee or black tea. Just right for me, though probably nothing like enough for many people. Walked back without getting lost. I found a manga miniatures shop on the way back but no sign there of a Sailor Moon cat - as in everything this day, I would have liked to have David there. Would like a really early night but ryokan walls are very thin and there are conversations from both sides.
Got to sleep OK and despite waking several times, had a pretty good night, not stirring to rise until 7.18 on account of being mainly asleep. I had ordered breakfast for 8 and wanted to be away soon after that, so swift dressing and packing, which was very easy as I had brought so little. The breakfast content and room were the best yet.
Left ryokan at 8.45 but disoriented by 90 degrees so wasted time getting to the JR station via a recognisable land mark. Easily found a local train to Houryuu ji station and the bus was easy to find at the other end. A gentleman volunteered his service as a guide - I did not like to decline but wondered about the time and my patience. He said the tour was normally an hour and a half but he would adapt to suit so I agreed to an hour. It was very helpful to have him shine a torch in some of the dark bits! It was also nice to have to concentrate on what he was saying - taking care to appreciate his jokes - so I did not focus on unhappy things. Met some scouts collecting for something towards the end of the tour. One special statue is only on view for one month each year and I was able to see it.
It was now a bit early to start my journey back to Okazaki, even though I wanted to see David - I meant to let him get some work done during the day. My guide book said it was a 40 minute bus ride to the next temple on the itinerary; neither my patience nor my stamina were up to that but there were taxis waiting. It cost almost 4000 yen (ca.20 pounds) and took about 25 minutes, so I got to Yakushi ji. I rushed round on my own. There was a service in progress - monks knelt in front of the budda statues in the main hall, chanting and fanning books, I think. I had no-one to ask but they had piles of what looked like books beside them, would reach out and take one from the top of the heap on the left, flip through all the pages by letting it drop fan-wise from one hand above to the other below then putting it on a pile on their right. Each volume looked superficially the same, with black characters on yellow. I felt it best to stand well back and did not linger as many visitors were there to pray.
Beyond the temple was a special exhibition of paintings which the staff were most anxious that I visit and English notes were provided so I went. It was not very exciting. I did not feel I had time or sufficient enthusiasm for the third temple, especially as my guidebook mentions only one statue group there as worth a visit.
The guidebook suggested using a bus between this temple and Nara but the temple plan showed a station nearby so I investigated. It was the Kinsetsu line but did indicate that trains went to Nara from there. There was little romaji and no English. I had to ask what the fare was. I got on a train that seemed right, but after one stop, everyone got off. A lady got on, so I asked her if it was going to Nara at which she ushered me off and onto an adjacent train. Lucky that I asked! This train took me to Kinsetsu Nara. I was pondering with the map on the best route to walk to the JR station when I realised I was right by a bus stop that mentioned JR and there was a bus there so I took the bus. Short wait for train to Kyoto. Most of the journey disturbed by noisy Japanese girls' sports team talking to two Canadians; I ended up intervening as they were entirely failing to communicate a wish to get an address from one of the girls so they could send gifts from Canada.
Just as well I did not hang about at Kyoto as a Hikari was due within a few minutes of my reaching the platform, then it was 40 minutes until a Kodama and no other suitable train in the hour. I would have paid for a Nozumi rather than waste so much time, but all I had to sacrifice here was my drink and chocolate that I had hoped to buy on the platform. I still almost missed the train because I stood behind a couple who appeared to be at the back of the queue for car 5 but they failed to make a move when the others ahead of them got on and I only just saw round the pillar in time that I was about to miss it.
I missed an Okazaki 'special rapid' by a couple off minutes, so had a chance to buy chocolate (a different type this time as no sign of the Darrs David recommended) and a drink before catching a 'new rapid' - no idea what the difference is but this seemed to make fewer stops. Took a taxi to the hotel Hei Sei and checked in for the last time. The girl with good English was on the desk which was fortunate. My room - on the front of the building and top floor this time - was very smelly so I opened a window which flew back so I could not close it. I appealed to the front desk by phone and a chap came, closed the window by kneeling on the desk and leaning out, and turned on the air conditioning.
Phoned David and arranged to meet at 6. I wanted to go to a nice restaurant where we could enjoy a good, relaxed meal together but he did not know of anywhere suitable so, since it was convenient, very Japanese and allowed us each to have as much as we wanted, I opted for the conveyor belt sushi place again. Then we walked on to the post office to send off the TWI mobile phone, as promised. It astonished me that the post office provided sticky tape to seal the envelope and had a 24hr out-of-hours postal counter open. The girl there said it would be in Tokyo for Monday so I hope it is all Ok. Making plans for tomorrow morning was hard. I don't want to think about saying goodbye. I have to check out by 10, don't need to leave Okazaki much before 1 but David is busy and can't spare three hours. We made a plan that works if the weather is dry.
It's wet. I will get up, have breakfast, tidy up, and phone David about a change of plan, since relaxing in the park and strolling about will be unpleasant in this. How appropriate.
I am wondering if it was a minor earth tremor that I experienced soon after settling down to sleep last night. It felt as if the bed juddered and I heard something metal fall in the ashtray where I had put my rings and the suitcase padlock. I do hope it was.
The rain continued and got worse. I checked out around 9.45 and phoned David to agree that I would be at his flat rather earlier than planned. I bought egg sandwiches, a bun of some sort and some chocolate at a konveni and soon reached the park. It was not very attractive in the rain. I found a map and headed for the lake. There were two swans, a few ducks and some swallows in view. I found a shelter with seats and stayed there a while, catching sight of more of the blackbird-sized birds with white patches. Then I went to the loo where I met a magnificent pale green moth at least four inches across and was able to photograph it. I made my way back to route 248, around the ponds near David's, hesitated about the right way briefly, and arrived at about 11. He was busy, so he carried on working and I sat with a book until 11.45, the time we had originally agreed. It was still raining hard so we got a taxi back to the hotel to pick up my luggage, then another taxi to the station. I was just in time for the 12.28. I did not want to rush away, but a drawn-out goodbye was best avoided. I watched David go then went straight onto the train; the grey wetness of the day was very suitable.
There was plenty of time to eat lunch on the platform at Nagoya. Travelled on a nice Hikari with a Nozomi engine. Tokyo's big stations are a pain! Even those specifically catering for travellers going to and from the airport do not make provision for moving with heavy luggage, which is mad. Add to that the proliferation of stations in the same locality but not linked because they are run by rival companies, and one gets a very annoying and difficult situation. Maybe I could have got a JR train to Narita and saved some of the stress, but with so much luggage, it was hard to move around to find out the time and place for the next suitable train. Having been told they are rare, I opted for the Keisei Skyliner which seems to always stop briefly in Narita itself.
The rain reasserted itself by the time I got to Narita. I spoke to a taxi driver about the location of the ryokan and he offered direction rather than a lift so I guessed it wasn't far. It wasn't far, though it was further than I cared to go in the rain dragging the case and bag. I was shown to a lovely big room overlooking the garden and pool with a pair of huge carp and it has private bathroom, washbasin and toilet too. It is rather more expensive than the others have been, and I have evidence that I did not book private facilities and was expecting to pay less but it is nice.
There is a restaurant in the hotel, which is ideal given the downpour. Reaching it involved yet another manifestation of the footwear obsession; one was obliged to change from the plastic backless slippers typical of the ryokans so far into wooden-soled slippers in order to get along the corridor from the lobby to the restaurant. I had grilled mackerel (at least that was what it was called and it might have been a small one but didn't taste quite like one to me - had better count the carp again in the morning.) and rice - hard to dissect the fish and avoid the bones when I am so bad with chopsticks but it was nice and no-one was looking. I phoned David to report progress so far. Bath and sleep seems a good idea since tomorrow is going to be some 8 hours longer than a normal day, I think, and, if it stop raining, I would like a quick walk in Narita before the hotel take me to the station soon after 9 and breakfast is ordered for 8.
It is still raining but I decided that a bit of a walk and some fresh air was a good idea anyway. I must be so predictable - the lady in the lobby guessed at once that I was heading to the temple. She offered an umbrella, which I was quite glad to borrow as I was carrying so little (though it was a nuisance, especially when I was trying to use the camera). Narita's big temple is very well worth a visit and merits much better weather and more time than I could manage. I saw very little of it but scampered round what I could. Sadly, I did not find out what the promised 'water austerities' comprised - David will have to find out if he manages to go there. The ticket office was showing signs of opening as I was leaving at 8.
I breakfasted alone on omelette, salad and toast, completed packing, and was very glad of the free lift to the JR station. The train took less than 10 minutes to reach the further of Narita airport's terminals. I did not have long to wait before checking in my bags at around 10.05. Then I did a lot of shopping rather fast. It was certainly not a cheap way of getting stuff, but it was easy, and involved little carrying - that'll hit me at Heathrow! I burdened myself with a red parasol having an awkwardly long handle then went on to find a cotton yukata with gold dragons on a dark background, two 'Fuji-san' tea cups plus tea in a tin, sweets for the office and several other bits. In the toyshop, it was inevitable that a little grey, expensive totoro jumped into my hand. In the electrical good store, there were lots of electronic dictionaries but only one with button legends in English. It was amongst the cheaper ones, and at over 100 pounds, still less than those I saw on the web, so I bought it. Next I have to find time to learn to use it - maybe on the plane. It was time for elevenses so I got a cold mocha and little cake near the boarding gate. I am torn between spending all the yen I have left over and saving some as small change for my next visit - it'll be largely up to David whether there is a 'next'.
This flight is full, so no chance to lie down, and no chance to sleep. There was a tail wind most of the flight so we landed about 45 minutes early. Because of my last-minute shopping spree, specifically the electronic dictionary, I had to declare my purchases to Customs, but after a nerve-straining pause, they let me off.
I had to wait over half an hour for the coach to Cambridge but the alternative was the route via Luton, and even with the wait I'll be home an hour earlier than anticipated.
My taxi driver was there to meet the coach but somehow missed seeing me get off it, but we soon met and I got home. Now to sort out everything I brought home, all the tickets and leaflets, the gifts, the many photos, and the memories.